Ka-ra-kal-pak-stan

This was a real tongue twister. Ka-ra-kal-pak-stan. Ka-ra-kal-pak-stan. Now say it faster. Ka-ra-pa-kal… Damn. After spending nearly a month in the ancient Silk Road cities, the Fergana Valley, and the Nuratau Mountains, we thought we were finally getting a grasp on Uzbekistan’s diversity and complexity. We were starting to understand […]

Night Trains

Years ago, when we were staying on an island in Cambodia in a little bungalow on the beach, Victor walked off the bed platform in the middle of the night and fell down a few feet.  He wasn’t fully awake and somehow didn’t hurt himself.   When his mom heard this […]

Next on the Bucket List: Oktoberfest in Munich

I was chatting with my cousin, who lives in Frankfurt, Germany, and telling her all about our 36-hour trip to Munich just to attend the opening of Oktoberfest. “Have you ever been?” I asked her. “Oh no!” she exclaimed. “We are not big drinkers at all!” “Neither are we!” I […]

People Live Here. Nuratau Mountains.

We were outside the Jizzakh train station, patiently waiting on our Yandex Go taxi driver, when another taxi pulled up.  The driver, a tall lean man in his early seventies, leaned out the window, “Where are you heading?” We explained that we were waiting for another taxi and he nodded, […]

Full Bloom in Namangan

A Tajik woman in a colorful dress was elbowing and pushing me away.  I was too close, and she demanded space. She was also bothered by my camera, hissing at me that it kept poking her in the back.  But what could I do? We were in the crowd, and […]

Two Pubs, One Fort: A-Not-Very-Sober Day in Ireland

By Victor / November 3, 2022

We woke up in Kinsale to the clatter of beer barrels rolling down the cobblestone street.  The ultimate Irish alarm clock! After quickly grabbing coffee and splitting a scone, we started the day in this little sleepy Irish port town by taking a highly recommended walking tour.  An old, cheery […]

The Full Irish Experience

By Julia / October 20, 2022

“I want to try the Full Irish Breakfast,” I said as the plane was picking up speed down the runway, “As soon as we arrive.” “You will get the Full Irish experience,” I promise you that.” Victor smiled. As the plane lifted off and I closed my eyes, a stray […]

Mexico City: Love at First Sight

By Victor / October 14, 2022

I was in a dentist’s chair with my mouth wide open. The dentist, holding his hand deep in my mouth, was eager to chat. “So, where are you traveling next?” “Mmm… meiii… ko …shity,” I muttered, drooling from the side of my mouth. “Say it again.” He said, taking his […]

Mind The Gap: The Gap of Dunloe

By Julia / September 29, 2022

After so many years of traveling, I know how to spot a problem in the itinerary. “Let’s talk about the Gap of Dunloe hike,” I said to Victor. “We have three hours to hike 11 kilometers through a mountain pass?  Exactly three hours or we miss the boat that takes […]

Pub-Hopping, Pub-Crawling, Pub-Learning: The Truly Irish Experience

By Victor / September 24, 2022

Although we repeat that we rarely drink, we finished almost every day of our recent trip to Ireland in a pub.  We drank in pubs, we danced in pubs, and once we even slept above a pub. Our travel philosophy of adapting to the customs of the place we visit-and […]

All Aboard the Coffin Ship!

By Julia / September 14, 2022

We stood in the queue at the Embarkation area, clutching our boarding passes.  Through the windows, we could see Dunbrody, a three-masted sailing vessel, moored at the quayside, its wooden sides gleaming in the sun.  A woman, dressed in a dark shawl and clutching a large bag, rushed past us, […]

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