Pottery for Pets

I woke up the next morning with my heart fluttering. It was the first day of my pottery retreat. I threw on older clothes I didn’t mind getting dirty with clay and hurried outside. I hadn’t really seen the courtyard the night before. We arrived after dark, when little was […]

First Lesson. Rishton.

It was late evening, and we had just arrived at the pottery studio of one of the most famous ceramic artists in Uzbekistan. We were exhausted and sweaty and weren’t sure if our long day of travel was over or if we would now need to look for alternative accommodation. […]

Getting There.  Rishton.

I’ve been talking about doing a pottery retreat for a long time – somewhere I can learn new skills, work with different types of clay and glazing techniques, get some fresh ideas for my craft.  It was always “one day” and “wouldn’t it be cool” type of idea.  I might […]

A Long-Overdue Affair: The Wisconsin State Fair

Last year, it finally happened. I went to the Wisconsin State Fair! Although I had lived in the state for over a decade, for whatever reason, I’d never made it to the festival grounds in West Allis until last year. Ironically, it took me to move out of Wisconsin to […]

Chicago: Keeping the Blues Alive

Today is a special day in Chicago: Buddy Guy celebrates his 90th birthday.  Although we are currently busy writing posts about Uzbekistan, this milestone-and America’s 250th year-makes it the perfect moment to celebrate one of the country’s greatest musical traditions: the blues. At his birthday bashes, Buddy Guy usually tells […]

Donbas of My Youth

By Victor / April 24, 2022

The train arrived at 3 a.m.  We descended from the passenger railroad car, groggy and disheveled, into a dimly lit platform, the edges of which were swallowed by the night.  Kolya, our team captain, silently motioned, and we marched down the platform behind him.  I was 19 years old, and […]

Museum of Russian Aggression

By Victor / April 7, 2022

The world is shocked by the unprecedented Russian aggression in Ukraine.  But the sad truth is that it was very much precedented, by Russian aggression in Georgia in 2008.  Much like Ukraine, Georgia began eyeing integration into NATO, which led to a deteriorated relationship with Russia and eventually to the […]

Слава Україні! Glory to Ukraine!

By Julia / March 12, 2022

On February 24, we planned to post about El Salvador and Victor’s surfing attempt at Las Flores beach.  Then, Russia invaded Ukraine, and blogging about travel became irrelevant. I was born in Ukraine, in the tiny village of Ponornytsya in Chernihiv Province, because the hospital of Korop, a slightly larger […]

Beyond the Flowers:  Hiking Ruta de las Flores

By Julia / February 16, 2022

If a foreign tourist does venture into El Salvador, he will inevitably come for one of two things – to surf or to visit Ruta de las Flores.  As Victor is diligently working on his “surviving surfing” post, I will, in the meantime, describe one of the most magical regions […]

Searching for Crashed Planes, Helicopters and Guerillas: A Very Unusual Christmas in El Salvador

By Victor / February 4, 2022

We spent the past holidays in El Salvador, and it turned out to be one of the strangest Christmases we’ve had during our travels.  No, it didn’t top our Christmas in India in 2014, when on Christmas Eve we nearly lost our camera, money, and Julia’s passport and ended up […]

El Salvador: The Beginning And The End

By Julia / January 27, 2022

For our very first story about our recent trip to El Salvador, I will start at the end and then, logically, will go backward. It was our last day in the country, and we had our backpacks ready with tourist trinkets, dirty clothes, and at least five bags of coffee […]

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