War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses
The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]
War. What is it good for. Mostar Edition.
Any time we mentioned we were traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the first question was always the same: “Isn’t that the place with the war?” Yes. But the war ended 30 years ago. It’s safe. Don’t worry! That answer was usually met with a head shake and a muttered comment […]
Bosnia and Herzegovina: One Country, Two Regions, Three Nations
What is a country? It’s a strange question, especially from someone who has traveled extensively. But the answer is not quite as simple as a glance at a political map might suggest. We have been to countries that no longer exist (Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, USSR), regions that used to be countries […]
Smuggling Molcajete
One of my most impractical dreams, born from years of travel, is this: I want to decorate each room in my house in the style of a different country. The bedroom would be designed like a chamber in an Indian palace with ornate fabrics, carved wood, and a hint of […]
Dancing with Chinelos
The old, battered bus was bouncing on the road with dusty Mexican countryside rolling outside the window. Google Maps on my phone was showing we were approaching our destination – Yautepec de Zaragoza. Before the trip, I could not even imagine that we would be trying to get to this […]
GOOOOOOOAL in Brazil
As I repeatedly mentioned in previous posts, I love soccer and enjoy visiting soccer stadiums and games every chance I get on our trips. So, naturally, when we visited Brazil in December 2015, I was beyond excited about everything soccer-related in a country where my favorite sport is such a […]
Georgian Food on My Mind
“You must be happy when making dough,” said Levon. “That’s the most important part of Georgian cooking. Your happiness will seep into the dough and make it delicious. An unhappy person cannot make authentic khachapuri or khinkali.” We were in a small restaurant in Kakheti, the type of place where […]
Georgia the Country, Not the State
There are a lot of things in this world I do not understand and probably never will. One of the most confusing concepts for me is why, how, and what is going on with Georgia not being on every “You Need to Get Your Butt to This Country ASAP” list […]
I Fell in Love With a Dog in Tbilisi
Someone once asked me what was the most romantic, poignant, heartbreaking thing that happened in all my travels. I told them the truth – once upon a time, I fell in love with a dog in Tbilisi. I was sitting on a bench, and she walked up to me, large […]
Following the Music Trail (U.S. South)
When we travel, we rarely have a “theme” in our trips. Usually, we just show up in a country or a region and explore everything it has to offer. However, in the summer of 2008, we drove through three southern U.S. states (Tennessee, Mississippi, and Louisiana) exploring sites associated with […]
Wallonia: Discovering Undiscovered Belgium
We absolutely love Belgium! Despite its tiny size, the country packs a lot, and spending 8 days there was barely enough to scratch the surface. With the size of Maryland, Belgium has three very distinct regions: Dutch-speaking Flanders in the north, French-speaking Wallonia in the south, and the capital city […]