War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses
The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]
War. What is it good for. Mostar Edition.
Any time we mentioned we were traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the first question was always the same: “Isn’t that the place with the war?” Yes. But the war ended 30 years ago. It’s safe. Don’t worry! That answer was usually met with a head shake and a muttered comment […]
Bosnia and Herzegovina: One Country, Two Regions, Three Nations
What is a country? It’s a strange question, especially from someone who has traveled extensively. But the answer is not quite as simple as a glance at a political map might suggest. We have been to countries that no longer exist (Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, USSR), regions that used to be countries […]
Smuggling Molcajete
One of my most impractical dreams, born from years of travel, is this: I want to decorate each room in my house in the style of a different country. The bedroom would be designed like a chamber in an Indian palace with ornate fabrics, carved wood, and a hint of […]
Dancing with Chinelos
The old, battered bus was bouncing on the road with dusty Mexican countryside rolling outside the window. Google Maps on my phone was showing we were approaching our destination – Yautepec de Zaragoza. Before the trip, I could not even imagine that we would be trying to get to this […]
Kutna Hora: Silver and Bones
“Cut! Stop! There is a person on the set”. I raise my head and see actors in medieval dresses all around me, and someone from the production crew running toward me, waving his hands and desperately pointing to a sidewalk. “Oh, shit”. Walking in quiet contemplation and studying the cobblestone […]
Hysterique de O’Hare
I don’t know how I feel about airports. This is strange for me to admit because I am the type of person who has strong feelings about almost everything in my life, including completely inconsequential things. On one hand, I love airports – the hustle, the crowds, the excitement of […]
Sunbathing in the Murder Capital
Acapulco. What a fantastic name for a city! The first time I heard of Acapulco was as a kid from a cheesy 1990s Russian pop song. And although I could not place Acapulco on the map and did not even know that the city was in Mexico rather than some […]
If I Were a Country: China vs Japan
If Victor were a country, he would be Japan. He has a deep respect for traditions, always courteously queues up in line, and can often be found working 16-hour days. I am China. I chew my food loudly, sing out of tune in the middle of the street, and can […]
Jamaica: The Wild Northeast
As we wrote in our Kingston post, our first instinct when planning a trip to Jamaica in 2017 was to avoid what most tourists consider to be essential Jamaica – Negril, Montego Bay, and Ocho Rios. We opted for the less touristy and less developed Northeast Jamaica and didn’t regret […]
Flamengo ‘Till I Die
When Julia and I were planning our Brazil trip, we turned for advice to our friend Will. Will was born and raised in Rio de Janeiro and was a huge help in planning our trip. Upon learning that we were going to visit his homeland, Will offered to stay for […]