Margilan Day Trip: Silk, Worms, and Dresses

Khushnud and I were chatting at the pottery wheel, as always.  For two people from different cultures, different generations, different religions, and opposite sexes, we found no shortage of things to talk about. At first, all we shared was a common language, Russian, and a love of pottery. Within a […]

The Student Becomes the Teacher

But by the third day, I had settled into the rhythm of life in the studio. We ate breakfast of bread, cheese, and tea and then Khushnud and I spent the morning at the pottery wheels, throwing new pieces, decorating, and trimming whatever had dried enough to handle. Before long, it […]

Detained at the Uzbek-Kyrgyz Border

While Julia was busy taking pottery classes, I got my ass in trouble. Funny story. When we arrived in Rishton, it was already dark outside, and we barely saw the surroundings.  But as we settled for the night at the pottery studio, I looked at Google Maps on my phone […]

Pottery for Pets

I woke up the next morning with my heart fluttering. It was the first day of my pottery retreat. I threw on older clothes I didn’t mind getting dirty with clay and hurried outside. I hadn’t really seen the courtyard the night before. We arrived after dark, when little was […]

First Lesson. Rishton.

It was late evening, and we had just arrived at the pottery studio of one of the most famous ceramic artists in Uzbekistan. We were exhausted and sweaty and weren’t sure if our long day of travel was over or if we would now need to look for alternative accommodation. […]

Trying to Beat the Market: The Grand Bazaar Experience

By Victor / April 20, 2023

I love markets in Asia.  Bright colors, pungent smells, cacophonic sounds-visiting a market in Asia is always a chaotic and exotic experience.  Every time we come to Asia, I get excited about getting lost in the labyrinths of markets and discovering local crafts, delicious and cheap food, and friendly vendors.  […]

Taxicab Confessions in Tallinn

By Julia / April 14, 2023

When we are traveling and have questions that no guidebook or a quick Google search can answer, we always look for a local to chat with.  In Latin America or Southeast Asia, it’s easy, just find a friendly vendor, chat up our Airbnb host, or find a friendly expat in […]

Sugar and Slave Watchtowers

By Victor / April 6, 2023

Tobacco and sugar.  Two exports-in addition to rum-that Cuba is most known for.  After spending three days in the tobacco-growing Piñar del Rio province, which included visiting a tobacco farm and learning about the cigar-making process in Viñales, we headed to the region that was once dominated by sugar production. […]

Get Addicted to Viñales – Tobacco and Rum

By Victor / March 30, 2023

In previous posts, Julia already described all the bouncing joy, painful blisters, and occasional aggressive biting of our horseback riding adventures in Viñales.  While Julia’s most powerful impressions in Viñales happened on horseback, I found myself awed in the most unexpected of places – a tobacco farm. We arrived in […]

Horseback Riding Day 2: Chocolate Declares War and Loses His Manhood

By Julia / March 23, 2023

Please start with Part I here. On the second day in Viñales, I woke up with a dull ache in my legs. “The four hours of horseback riding yesterday certainly left an uncomfortable reminder.” I mused as I waddled to the bathroom.  The problem was that my adventures in the […]

Galloping Through Viñales

By Julia / March 16, 2023

“Do you know how to ride horses?” our Airbnb host in Viñales asked. “Yes!” I answered without thinking.  If I had thought about it, the answer would have been, “Yes, I sat on a horse twice this year while the owner led it up a mountain, so I can enjoy […]

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