Getting My Ears Picked in Taiwan

One of the pleasures of going to Asia, at least for me, is the massages.  Everywhere from Thailand to Vietnam to Cambodia, the massages are excellent, cheap, and widely available. From restorative foot massages after a long day of hiking, to full body deep tissue rubdown that leaves me in […]

Kaohsiung 高雄市: My kind of town

“Please just point to it on the map. Don’t try to pronounce it!” Julia pleaded with me as we approached a ticket counter at the Tainan train station to buy tickets to our next destination. The day before, she was chatting with her massage therapist and tried to tell him […]

Introductory Course: Taipei 101

All of a sudden, everyone knows what Taipei 101 is, after Alex Honnold scaled Taiwan’s tallest building with no ropes and no fear, live on Netflix. We were in Taipei a month before this death-defying stunt, and when Victor mentioned that we would visit Taipei 101, I had no idea […]

Hail Mary at Taoist Temple

“You enter on the right through the dragon door and exit on the left through the tiger door. And you never enter or exit through the middle door. That door is for gods.” We sat on a bench in front of a brightly colored Taoist temple with a rooftop looking […]

Taiwan: The First 24 Hours

The first 24 hours in Asia are crucial. This isn’t an easy 4-hour flight to Mexico City, where we get out of the airplane and hit the ground running, only occasionally stopping to marvel that just a few hours ago we were at home. It doesn’t have a mere 6-8 […]

Eating Our Way Through Japan

By Julia / May 14, 2021

The first and only thing I used to think of any time anyone said the words “Japanese” and “food” in the same sentence was “sushi”.   I was faintly aware of noodles and tempura but have never been a big fan of either.  Sushi, on the other hand, has been my […]

Jamaica: The World’s Highest Coffee

By Victor / May 6, 2021

Last month, we did something irresponsible. Are you ready? We paid $15 for a cup of coffee. Yes, frugal backpackers who run this blog did that. Before you judge us for the splurge, all I can say is that we did it in the fancy, four-story Starbucks on Chicago’s Magnificent […]

How I Left Everything and Joined a Monastery in Japan… For One Night

By Julia / April 30, 2021

There are old fables of exhausted men climbing tall mountains to find a wise Buddhist monk meditating on the very top.  The monk then, in very few words, discloses to the weary traveler the secret to success, love, life, or whatever grand question is presented.  In these fables, the monks […]

Japan: The Simple Houses of a Complex Country

By Julia / April 22, 2021

It was 6 am and I woke up freezing.  Wrapped in my blanket head to toe, I braved the chilly air to sneak my head out and look around.  We were sleeping on the floor.  Under the neighboring blanket, Victor was awake and trembling as well. “It feels as if […]

Wondering About Chichen Itza

By Victor / April 15, 2021

Every time I visit a place that is universally considered to be a “must-see” or a “wonder of the world”, I quietly prepare myself to be disappointed.  Mass popularity often brings visitors (including us) to totally overrated places.  Mount Rushmore, Stonehenge, the peeing boy statue – my personal list of […]

Singing the Portuguese Blues

By Julia / April 1, 2021

It’s dusk in Lisbon.  Darkness is setting over narrow streets, and mournful melodies flow out of every pub, café, and restaurant.  It’s the sound of traditional Portuguese lament, produced by a twelve-string guitar, a viola, and a heartbroken woman (or sometimes a man). This is fado, folk music of Lisbon’s […]

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