The Ghost Town That Wasn’t
We were in San Miguel de Allende, enjoying all the classic traits of a pretty Mexican town – a gorgeous church dominating the skyline on the main plaza, colonial architecture with carved wooden doors and wrought-iron balconies, winding cobblestone streets, and quaint local markets where indigenous women sold traditional crafts. […]
From Tulum Trauma to San Miguel Magic
Our flight to Monterrey got cancelled again. The first time, a year ago, we rebooked it for Mexico City, but this time airfare to León was cheap enough to make us consider going there… again. We had already taken the same flight a few years earlier and spent three wonderful […]
Mexican Chicago
Back in 2003, when I’d just arrived in Chicago, my first apartment was in Hermosa on the city’s northwest side. One evening, when I was in the back porch relaxing after a day of work, the street was suddenly filled with the sound of the revving engines. Motorcycles and cars […]
Go For Gözleme
The previous post about fish, bread, and never giving up on food dreams reminded me of something that happened two years ago, during a road trip from Izmir to Antalya in Türkiye. We left our Airbnb early in the morning, eager to start a long day of sightseeing, and skipped […]
Searching for Fish and Bread in Istanbul
Two years ago, when we did a road trip through southwest Türkiye, I kept looking for balık ekmek. If you don’t know what that is, don’t worry. Neither did I. But Victor kept mentioning how he and his parents enjoyed a delicious balık ekmek in a restaurant by the Bosphorus […]
Probably Robbed in Brazil
“We are going to Brazil!” we excitedly announced at a picnic with friends a few years ago. One of our friends, Will, a giant 6’4” former U.S. Army Officer who grew up in Brazil, looked us up and down. “You are probably going to get robbed.” He flatly stated. The […]
High in the Mountains, High on the Beaches: Jamaica
There were three things I knew about Jamaica before our trip there: Bob Marley, legalized weed, and beautiful beaches. I was wrong about one out of three. No, this is not a post unraveling a giant conspiracy theory that Bob Marley was actually a Puerto Rican or a tedious list […]
Kutná Hora: Silver and Human Bones
“Cut! Stop! There’s someone on the set”. I look up and see actors in medieval dresses all around me. And someone from the production crew runs toward me, frantically pointing to the sidewalk. “Oh, shit.” Walking in quiet contemplation and examining Kutná Hora’s cobblestone streets, I got so lost in […]
Hysterique de O’Hare
I don’t know how I feel about airports. This is strange for me to admit because I am the type of person who has strong feelings about almost everything in my life, including completely inconsequential things. On one hand, I love airports – the hustle, the crowds, the excitement of […]
Sunbathing in the Murder Capital
Acapulco. What a great name for a city! The first time I heard the name was as a kid, in a cheesy 1990s Russian pop song. Back then, I couldn’t have placed Acapulco on the map and didn’t even know that it was in Mexico and not on some remote […]
If I Were a Country: China vs Japan
If Victor were a country, he would be Japan. He has a deep respect for traditions, always courteously queues up in line, and can often be found working 16-hour days. I am China. I chew my food loudly, sing out of tune in the middle of the street, and can […]