War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses

The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]

War. What is it good for. Mostar Edition.

Any time we mentioned we were traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the first question was always the same: “Isn’t that the place with the war?” Yes. But the war ended 30 years ago. It’s safe. Don’t worry! That answer was usually met with a head shake and a muttered comment […]

Bosnia and Herzegovina: One Country, Two Regions, Three Nations

What is a country? It’s a strange question, especially from someone who has traveled extensively.  But the answer is not quite as simple as a glance at a political map might suggest.  We have been to countries that no longer exist (Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, USSR), regions that used to be countries […]

Smuggling Molcajete

One of my most impractical dreams, born from years of travel, is this: I want to decorate each room in my house in the style of a different country.  The bedroom would be designed like a chamber in an Indian palace with ornate fabrics, carved wood, and a hint of […]

Dancing with Chinelos

The old, battered bus was bouncing on the road with dusty Mexican countryside rolling outside the window.  Google Maps on my phone was showing we were approaching our destination – Yautepec de Zaragoza.  Before the trip, I could not even imagine that we would be trying to get to this […]

How I Left Everything and Joined a Monastery in Japan… For One Night

By Julia / April 30, 2021

There are old fables of exhausted men climbing tall mountains to find a wise Buddhist monk meditating on the very top.  The monk then, in very few words, discloses to the weary traveler the secret to success, love, life, or whatever grand question is presented.  In these fables, the monks […]

Japan: The Simple Houses of a Complex Country

By Julia / April 22, 2021

It was 6 am and I woke up freezing.  Wrapped in my blanket head to toe, I braved the chilly air to sneak my head out and look around.  We were sleeping on the floor.  Under the neighboring blanket, Victor was awake and trembling as well. “It feels as if […]

Wondering About Chichen Itza

By Victor / April 15, 2021

Every time I visit a place that is universally considered to be a “must-see” or a “wonder of the world”, I quietly prepare myself to be disappointed.  Mass popularity often brings visitors (including us) to totally overrated places.  Mount Rushmore, Stonehenge, the peeing boy statue – my personal list of […]

Singing the Portuguese Blues

By Julia / April 1, 2021

It’s dusk in Lisbon.  Darkness is setting over narrow streets, and mournful melodies flow out of every pub, café, and restaurant.  It’s the sound of traditional Portuguese lament, produced by a twelve-string guitar, a viola, and a heartbroken woman (or sometimes a man). This is fado, folk music of Lisbon’s […]

Surrounded by Van Gogh

By Victor / March 19, 2021

Earlier this month, we went to see one of the hottest shows in Chicago right now – The Immersive van Gogh Exhibit. The exhibit allows visitors to explore masterpieces of Vincent van Gogh through 360-degree digital projections and an atmospheric light and sound show. Sitting in a large hall surrounded […]

A “Ruined” Vacation in Mexico

By Victor / March 11, 2021

Soft light of the early morning sun was gently seeping through the canopies of trees as we made our way through the jungle.  Waking up super early and driving in a half-awakened state for two hours from Puerto Morelos was totally worth it as we were rewarded by spending the […]

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