Introductory Course: Taipei 101

All of a sudden, everyone knows what Taipei 101 is, after Alex Honnold scaled Taiwan’s tallest building with no ropes and no fear, live on Netflix. We were in Taipei a month before this death-defying stunt, and when Victor mentioned that we would visit Taipei 101, I had no idea […]

Hail Mary at Taoist Temple

“You enter on the right through the dragon door and exit on the left through the tiger door. And you never enter or exit through the middle door. That door is for gods.” We sat on a bench in front of a brightly colored Taoist temple with a rooftop looking […]

Taiwan: The First 24 Hours

The first 24 hours in Asia are crucial. This isn’t an easy 4-hour flight to Mexico City, where we get out of the airplane and hit the ground running, only occasionally stopping to marvel that just a few hours ago we were at home. It doesn’t have a mere 6-8 […]

When the Night Falls: Night Markets in Taiwan

A few days before our trip, I was talking to someone who had previously visited Taiwan and their only piece of advice was straightforward and without mincing words: “Do not eat street food there.” This was completely unexpected. If they’d said, “Don’t go there under any circumstances,” that would have […]

Back to Asia: Discovering Taiwan

The last time we were in Southeast Asia was in 2019, which now seems like a lifetime ago. Our first trip to that region was Thailand in 2013, followed by India in 2014, Japan in 2016, China in 2017, Cambodia in 2018, and finally Vietnam in 2019.  On our first […]

Camping on Top of the Conchagua Volcano

By Julia / May 27, 2022

Please start with Part I, where we search for Luis, for the volcano, and for the chance to spend an unforgettable night camping on top of Conchagua Volcano in El Salvador. As of the date of posting, we couldn’t find any comprehensive information about camping on Conchagua on the English-speaking […]

Where in the World is Luis?

By Julia / May 19, 2022

“We have a gap in the itinerary,” I said, “I don’t have an Airbnb booked for the night of Dec 30th. Where are we going to be?” “We are going to camp on top of the volcano,” Victor said. Here’s the thing.  I didn’t even question it. I know Victor […]

The Holy Pilgrimage of the Monarch (Butterflies)

By Julia / May 12, 2022

I was on my hands and knees digging in the damp dirt outside my patio.  My knees were wet, my hands were dirty up to my elbows.   Victor watched me from the window, his brow furrowed.  Sometimes, even a short international trip can have lasting consequences. But let’s start at […]

A Heatstroke in the Stone City

By Victor / May 6, 2022

I sit on a stony curbside in complete darkness. My head hurts. Dogs bark in the distance. The sweet darkness of the Albanian night hugs me gently as I rub my temples, trying not to throw up. That’s not how I envisioned our first meeting, Gjirokaster. Last summer, we traveled […]

Donbas of My Youth

By Victor / April 24, 2022

The train arrived at 3 a.m.  We descended from the passenger railroad car, groggy and disheveled, into a dimly lit platform, the edges of which were swallowed by the night.  Kolya, our team captain, silently motioned, and we marched down the platform behind him.  I was 19 years old, and […]

Museum of Russian Aggression

By Victor / April 7, 2022

The world is shocked by the unprecedented Russian aggression in Ukraine.  But the sad truth is that it was very much precedented, by Russian aggression in Georgia in 2008.  Much like Ukraine, Georgia began eyeing integration into NATO, which led to a deteriorated relationship with Russia and eventually to the […]

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