War. What is it good for. Mostar Edition.

Any time we mentioned we were traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the first question was always the same: “Isn’t that the place with the war?” Yes. But the war ended 30 years ago. It’s safe. Don’t worry! That answer was usually met with a head shake and a muttered comment […]

Bosnia and Herzegovina: One Country, Two Regions, Three Nations

What is a country? It’s a strange question, especially from someone who has traveled extensively.  But the answer is not quite as simple as a glance at a political map might suggest.  We have been to countries that no longer exist (Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, USSR), regions that used to be countries […]

Smuggling Molcajete

One of my most impractical dreams, born from years of travel, is this: I want to decorate each room in my house in the style of a different country.  The bedroom would be designed like a chamber in an Indian palace with ornate fabrics, carved wood, and a hint of […]

Dancing with Chinelos

The old, battered bus was bouncing on the road with dusty Mexican countryside rolling outside the window.  Google Maps on my phone was showing we were approaching our destination – Yautepec de Zaragoza.  Before the trip, I could not even imagine that we would be trying to get to this […]

Rioting in Cuernavaca

We were enjoying a quiet breakfast of an omelet and sopes on an outdoor patio, taking in the beautiful view of the central plaza. Like so many town squares in Mexico, it featured all the familiar elements: a park, a gazebo, a historic church, and the oversized colorful letters spelling […]

Chicken Bus, 25 Tortillas, and Lava Rocks of Guatemala

By Victor / December 14, 2021

“Chicken bus! Chicken bus! Stop! Please, stooooppp!!!” I am running along a dusty street in Jocotenango, chasing a brightly decorated, refurbished US school bus.  In my right hand, I am holding a plastic bag with 25 freshly made corn tortillas.  My left hand is desperately flailing in the air, trying […]

Valladolid: Exploring Yucatan’s Pueblo Mágico

By Victor / December 2, 2021

The night before visiting Chichen Itza, we spent in the colonial town of Valladolid.  For years, Valladolid had been overlooked by visitors and served primarily as a lunch stop for people traveling to or from Chichen Itza.  Recently, the town finally started to get tourist love as more and more […]

Accidental Fare Dodgers in Hungary

By Julia / November 18, 2021

Part I of EuroTrip 2002 Here Part II of EuroTrip 2002 Here In Munich, we met up with Andrey and George, and later with Max’s long-distance girlfriend. We went from a cozy group of 3 people, 2 of whom unconditionally followed me everywhere, to a group of six highly disorganized […]

Train Wreck of a Trip

By Julia / November 11, 2021

Start with “EuroTrip 2002 Begins” Here. Looking back at the European trip 2002, I am amazed at just how many things went wrong and just how unbothered by all this we were. Being young and optimistic and most importantly not being too concerned with screwing up our itinerary played in […]

Eurotrip 2002 Begins: Breaking and Entering in Hamburg

By Julia / October 28, 2021

When I met Victor in 2003, I proudly told him I was an experienced international traveler.  After all, I’ve been on four trips out of the country!  Victor, who at that point had only been on the plane once, from Belarus to the USA, was properly impressed.  Straight out of […]

Gaudi’s Barcelona

By Victor / October 22, 2021

We arrived in Barcelona early in the morning after a hellish overnight train ride that we still remember more than 10 years later.  Bleary-eyed and groggy, our zombie-like entrance into the city was less than glorious.  But that did not matter after all.  We were in Barcelona.  The city of […]

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