Sarajevo: From Olympic City to Besieged City
My mom rocks me gently in her arms. I’ve just turned one and stare at her with my big green eyes. She watches me lovingly but occasionally glances at the black-and-white TV in our living room. The TV broadcast shows snow-capped mountains, the open-air stadium, and cheering spectators. She would […]
With Love… To Sarajevo
I have never felt more lost in history and geography than on the streets of Sarajevo. Within the same block, there would be an old mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue thrown in for good measure. Strolling down Ferhadija Street, we would pass Viennese Secessionist buildings […]
Still Exploring Herzegovina. Part II.
Last week, we shared our journey through the underrated region of Herzegovina, and the destinations that both impressed us and reminded us of other locations from our prior travels around the globe. Today is Part 2 of that post, where we bring you more of Herzegovina. 4. Konjic or we […]
Exploring Herzegovina Beyond Mostar. Part I.
Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days. Wait … we did what? Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation. No, we didn’t drastically change the way […]
War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses
The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]
Searching for Crashed Planes, Helicopters and Guerillas: A Very Unusual Christmas in El Salvador
These past holidays we spent in El Salvador, and this was one of the strangest Christmases we had in our travels. No, it didn’t top our Christmas in India in 2014, when on Christmas Eve we nearly lost our camera, money, and Julia’s passport and ended up drinking opium in […]
El Salvador: The Beginning And The End
For our very first story about our recent trip to El Salvador, I will start at the end and then, logically, will go backward. It was our last day in the country, and we had our backpacks ready with tourist trinkets, dirty clothes, and at least five bags of coffee […]
Chasing the Light in France
In the summer of 2009, we went to France to “chase the light”. When I initially announced my intentions for this trip, Julia gave me a confused look and asked me to elaborate. I explained that we would start in Paris, visiting as many art museums as we possibly could, […]
Northern Albania – Mountains, Ferry, and Blood Feuds
We weren’t planning on heading north in Albania. It’s a completely mountainous region, with narrow and steep roads, wholly unsuitable for inexperienced travelers such as Victor’s mom. And we have explored so many other mountain ranges in the past – the Rocky Mountains, Smoky Mountains, Swiss Alps, Andes – that […]
Albania Highlights
One small change on this map – Google doesn’t do ferry routes, so the distance between Koman and Fierze is incorrect. We took a ferry down Koman Lake and then Drin River, not SH5 and SH22 roads. Places Visited Tirana Kruja Lezhe Cape of Rodonit Shkoder Koman Fierze Valbona Bajram […]
Chicken Bus, 25 Tortillas, and Lava Rocks of Guatemala
“Chicken bus! Chicken bus! Stop! Please, stooooppp!!!” I am running along a dusty street in Jocotenango, chasing a brightly decorated, refurbished US school bus. In my right hand, I am holding a plastic bag with 25 freshly made corn tortillas. My left hand is desperately flailing in the air, trying […]