War. What is it good for. Mostar Edition.
Any time we mentioned we were traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the first question was always the same: “Isn’t that the place with the war?” Yes. But the war ended 30 years ago. It’s safe. Don’t worry! That answer was usually met with a head shake and a muttered comment […]
Bosnia and Herzegovina: One Country, Two Regions, Three Nations
What is a country? It’s a strange question, especially from someone who has traveled extensively. But the answer is not quite as simple as a glance at a political map might suggest. We have been to countries that no longer exist (Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, USSR), regions that used to be countries […]
Smuggling Molcajete
One of my most impractical dreams, born from years of travel, is this: I want to decorate each room in my house in the style of a different country. The bedroom would be designed like a chamber in an Indian palace with ornate fabrics, carved wood, and a hint of […]
Dancing with Chinelos
The old, battered bus was bouncing on the road with dusty Mexican countryside rolling outside the window. Google Maps on my phone was showing we were approaching our destination – Yautepec de Zaragoza. Before the trip, I could not even imagine that we would be trying to get to this […]
Rioting in Cuernavaca
We were enjoying a quiet breakfast of an omelet and sopes on an outdoor patio, taking in the beautiful view of the central plaza. Like so many town squares in Mexico, it featured all the familiar elements: a park, a gazebo, a historic church, and the oversized colorful letters spelling […]
An Honest Conversation in Havana
There is a conversation that happens in every country we visit. The locals earnestly ask, we honestly answer, the locals are thrilled, and by the end of it, everyone is happy. But this one time, it went off script. “How do you like Cuba?” the taxi driver asked, flashing us […]
Our Own Museum of Travel
Our condo is a museum of our never-ending globetrotting. African masks, religious statues, souvenirs, and mementos from all over the world constantly fight for shelf space with the cats. The more we travel, the more things we bring home. Our minimalist way of life directly conflicts with the constant desire […]
Unexpected Food Capital of South America
How come Peru has two restaurants in the top 10 restaurants in the world list while the U.S. has none? This was one of the questions we puzzled over while boarding our flight to Lima. The answer was found shortly thereafter, during our nine-day crisscrossing of the land of the […]
Peninsulas of Ireland Part II: The Luck of the Irish
Start here with Part I: The Undiscovered Peninsulas of Ireland. Day 4. Ring of Kerry on Iveragh Peninsula. We spent a long time discussing the Ring of Kerry during the planning of the trip, and it all came down to this not-very-common itinerary question: clockwise or counterclockwise? I can’t recall […]
The Undiscovered Peninsulas of Ireland
“It looks like a claw,” Victor said. We zoomed in to the bottom left corner of the island of Ireland on Google maps, and I clearly saw a claw with five crooked digits protruding into the ocean, the five southwestern peninsulas. The peninsulas, Mizen, Sheep’s Head, Beara, Iveragh, and Dingle, […]
On the Edge of the Crater: Volcano Hiking in El Salvador
My recent post about hiking (and running) through Dunloe Gap reminded me of the most spectacular hike we did at the end of last year. El Salvador and that entire region, including Guatemala and Costa Rica, are chock full of volcanoes, and yet another volcano hike didn’t sound like anything […]