Soft light of the early morning sun gently streamed through the trees as we made our way through the jungle. Waking up early and driving in a half-asleep state for two hours from Puerto Morelos was totally worth it. We were rewarded with the chance to explore the ruins of the enchanting Mayan city, Coba.

Coba was one of the five archaeological sites we visited during our recent stay in Mexico. Twelve years ago, we were awestruck by the pyramids of Teotihuacan near Mexico City and were now eager to see what the Yucatan Peninsula had to offer.  The guidebook described Coba as one of the oldest cities in the area, having been founded between 50 BC and 100 AD and most likely founded by the Maya who arrived from Guatemala and Honduras.  Also, for a long time, it was one of the least accessible sites, hidden deep in the jungle.

When it opened at 8 a.m., we were among the first few people who entered. The air was fresh and crisp, reminding us of waking up at 5 a.m. two years earlier to visit the temples of Angkor to beat the crowds and the scorching Cambodian heat.

Walking through the entrance gate, we veered right and immediately came across a giant step pyramid—the Iglesia—hidden in the trees. Imposing and resembling an unfinished cathedral, it majestically dominated this part of the park. The exact use of this structure by the Maya is unclear, but it may have served as a center of religious ceremonies. The nearby buildings included the living quarters and a ball court, both remarkably well preserved.

To explore the archaeological site, we rented bicycles at the park. Old and worn out, with uncomfortable seats and bent pedals, they made creaking and groaning noises and looked so prehistoric that it seemed the Maya themselves had ridden them. But they served the purpose and gave us the thrill of breezing through the jungle and getting us from one place to another.

As we passed several clusters of ruins, we finally made it to the main attraction—Nohoch Mul—another freestanding step pyramid and one of the highest surviving Mayan structures. Before coming to Coba, I knew that people could still climb Nohoch Mul. Yet, what I had read about the experience varied greatly. Some people described climbing as exhilarating and the highlight; others described it with horror, saying they felt dizzy or lightheaded. I chose not to tell Julia about the harrowing reviews so she could see and decide for herself whether she wanted to climb it.

Like the Iglesia, Nohoch Mul is hidden in the jungle, and you have a feeling of discovering it when you step in front of it. Coming closer and looking up at the rows of uneven steps shooting up the sky, Julia quietly muttered under her breath:

“No way I'm climbing it to the top.”

Luckily, the problem solved itself. That day, climbing was suspended as a measure to combat COVID-19 to prevent tourists from bumping into one another on this narrow staircase to heaven. We were not disappointed, though. We settled at the base and gazed up at this pyramid, touching the trees with its walls.

After Nohoch Mul, we rode for another hour and stopped to marvel at the engraved stelae and to stroll on the elevated rocky pathways that the Maya called “sacbe,” or “white road”.

We left the park around 11 a.m., when the place started to get overwhelmed with tourists, and the jungle was starting to get steamy hot.

Out of the five ruins we visited in Mexico, each place had its own unique feature that we appreciated.  And if we loved Coba for allowing us to play Indiana Jones, Tulum stole our hearts with its picturesque location.

As with Coba, we visited Tulum first thing in the morning to avoid the sweltering heat and thousands of people jamming the ruins. The vendor area by the entrance was pure tourist hell. There were rows of stalls selling cheap souvenirs and trinkets made in China. Because we were there early, vendors jumped at us relentlessly. Searching for an entrance, I made the mistake of making eye contact with one of the sellers. He immediately seized the opportunity and offered us souvenirs, then more souvenirs, and after seeing no interest whatsoever, he offered to show us ... monkeys. He whispered the offer with a conspiratorial murmur as if he had just offered us bootleg alcohol in a speakeasy during the Prohibition. Julia just gave him a stern look, and we continued to march on.

With the gaudy tourist area behind us, we were finally at the site. Unlike Coba—one of the oldest settlements—the walled city of Tulum was one of the last cities built and inhabited by the Maya, with its heyday spanning from the 13th to 15th centuries. The city was also known as Zama, meaning the City of Dawn, as it sat on top of cliffs overlooking the Caribbean Sea and facing the sunrise. Unlike Coba, the Tulum ruins are in the open.

The main building, El Castillo, dominates the background. At a certain angle, with its colonnaded beams, the structure appears nearly Neoclassical in design, and Julia thought that I had lost my mind when I started to compare it with the Milwaukee County Courthouse. Other notable buildings included the Temple of the Frescoes and the Temple of the Descending God. But the main attraction is not the ruins but their breathtaking location.

Perched on top of cliffs and juxtaposed against the turquoise Caribbean Sea and tropical greenery, the ruins create a vision of a true paradise. El Castillo and God of Winds Temple—standing on opposing sides of the cliffs—effectively served as guard towers and lighthouses protecting a little, charming bay between them. As the crowds and the blistering heat finally caught up with us, we took a break in the shadow of trees precariously hanging on the edge of the cliffs. Marveling at the ruins and the sea, we imagined the time when the place was bustling not with tourists, but as an active port.

The Tulum ruins are not extensive and can be easily seen in an hour or two. There isn't much to do here, but the beauty of the location alone is more than enough to justify a short stop.

The Mayan civilization that dominated this area for hundreds of years mysteriously vanished from the face of the Earth, leaving behind its secrets in places like Coba and Tulum. Whether finding them deep in a jungle or on towering bluffs overlooking the Caribbean Sea, the ruins intrigued, amazed, and astonished us. In future posts, read about us visiting other ruins in the area, including the most famous Chichen Itza.