Sarajevo: From Olympic City to Besieged City

My mom rocks me gently in her arms. I’ve just turned one and stare at her with my big green eyes. She watches me lovingly but occasionally glances at the black-and-white TV in our living room. The TV broadcast shows snow-capped mountains, the open-air stadium, and cheering spectators. She would […]

With Love… To Sarajevo

I have never felt more lost in history and geography than on the streets of Sarajevo.  Within the same block, there would be an old mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue thrown in for good measure.  Strolling down Ferhadija Street, we would pass Viennese Secessionist buildings […]

Still Exploring Herzegovina. Part II.

Last week, we shared our journey through the underrated region of Herzegovina, and the destinations that both impressed us and reminded us of other locations from our prior travels around the globe. Today is Part 2 of that post, where we bring you more of Herzegovina. 4. Konjic or we […]

Exploring Herzegovina Beyond Mostar. Part I.

Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days. Wait … we did what? Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation. No, we didn’t drastically change the way […]

War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses

The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]

Español Nicaragüense Es Pura Deacachimba

By Victor / February 20, 2025

My First Post in Spanish “Sabes qué,” me dijo el guia nicaragüense, “eres el primer gringo que conozco que habla español muy bien.” Estabámos en la cima del Volcán Telica, a cien metros del cráter, y no podía creer lo que acababa de eschuchar.  Antes de visitar Nicaragua, no podía […]

Volcano Day: Up We Go

By Julia / February 13, 2025

In 2014, Victor was in Panama, and his favorite story was visiting Embera village and watching a pet toucan wash itself in a small outdoor sink.  Victor turned on the faucet to wash his hands, and the bird flew right in and started splashing around and trying to awkwardly fit […]

Volcano Day: Down We Go

By Julia / February 6, 2025

The way it usually goes is like this: Victor plans the itinerary, and I book the transportation and accommodations.  One thing about Victor is that he is meticulous, detail-oriented, and thorough. He doesn’t make mistakes, he doesn’t forget small details, he doesn’t just leave off details from the itinerary for […]

Skipping Managua.  Part II. Leon

By Victor / January 30, 2025

One week after visiting Granada, we drove into its long-time rival – Leon. Like Granada, Leon is set in a breathtaking location.  Approaching the city from the north, we counted at least six volcanoes on the horizon, all part of the Cordillera de Maribios. As we got closer to the […]

Skipping Managua.  Part I.  Granada

By Victor / January 23, 2025

One clear trend in our travels is that Central American capital cities don’t get much love from us. It’s just the way it is.  In Guatemala, upon arrival, we left the capital, Guatemala City, without ever seeing it.  In San Salvador, the capital of El Salvador, we spent only half […]

A Whole New Life

By Julia / January 16, 2025

Start with Part I Here We were walking from Airbnb towards the livestock barns, and I noticed it wasn’t quite as dark as I thought it would be.  As we were driving up the mountain, my fear of encroaching darkness made me feel that it was much later in the […]

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