Sarajevo: From Olympic City to Besieged City

My mom rocks me gently in her arms. I’ve just turned one and stare at her with my big green eyes. She watches me lovingly but occasionally glances at the black-and-white TV in our living room. The TV broadcast shows snow-capped mountains, the open-air stadium, and cheering spectators. She would […]

With Love… To Sarajevo

I have never felt more lost in history and geography than on the streets of Sarajevo.  Within the same block, there would be an old mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue thrown in for good measure.  Strolling down Ferhadija Street, we would pass Viennese Secessionist buildings […]

Still Exploring Herzegovina. Part II.

Last week, we shared our journey through the underrated region of Herzegovina, and the destinations that both impressed us and reminded us of other locations from our prior travels around the globe. Today is Part 2 of that post, where we bring you more of Herzegovina. 4. Konjic or we […]

Exploring Herzegovina Beyond Mostar. Part I.

Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days. Wait … we did what? Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation. No, we didn’t drastically change the way […]

War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses

The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]

Getting Around Ometepe

By Julia / April 17, 2025

If I had to explain in one word why we absolutely plan on visiting Nicaragua again, that word would be “Ometepe”.  The first time I saw it in our itinerary, I thought it sounded spiritual and mysterious, with a note of an ancient ceremony, and a hint of volcanic eruptions.  […]

The Coffee Robbery of the Century

By Victor / March 27, 2025

If you order a cup of Nicaraguan coffee at home, chances are that the beans used in preparing your drink will be from one of the fincas near Jinotega or Matagalpa.  After all, this is a premier region for renowned and much-sought shade-grown Nicaraguan coffee.  We were lucky enough to […]

The Shadowy Business of Nicaraguan Coffee

By Victor / March 20, 2025

At breakfast, we planned to ask our host, Edgar, if he could give us a tour of his El Soccorro finca or recommend any other coffee tours in the area.  But it turned out, we didn’t even have to ask.  Edgar was super enthusiastic and excited about these two travelers […]

Coffee: In Love and War

By Victor / March 13, 2025

Several years ago, a coffee shop near my work had seasonal Nicaraguan coffee beans for sale. Coffee bags with big letters NICARAGUA featured an image of a man in a blue shirt holding a basket of ripe coffee cherries. The name of the coffee was “Don Zeledon”, and the coffee […]

Somoto Canyon: The River Runs Through It

By Julia / March 5, 2025

Start with Part I here In the last post, I left off just as we reached the bottom of the Somoto Canyon and, incidentally, the Nicaraguan border with Honduras.  As it turns out, the Rio Coco River, which runs through Somoto Canyon, divides Honduras and Nicaragua along most of its […]

Somoto Canyon: The What, the Why, and the How

By Julia / February 27, 2025

We were eating breakfast in our Granada Airbnb, the standard affair of rice, beans, eggs, and plantains, when Victor loudly snickered and put down the book he had been leafing through.  It was an old, torn-up Nicaraguan guidebook he found on the bookshelf among poetry books by Ruben Dario and […]

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