Dear Uzbekistan
I was climbing a mountain, composing a love letter in my head. Dear Uzbekistan. I’ve been here for three weeks, but it feels like a lifetime. I’ve seen your cities and villages, your modern high-rises and ancient fortresses, your valleys, deserts, and mountains. I’ve eaten your food and talked to […]
Uzbekistan: It’s Not Just Plov
Food is a big reason why we travel. It’s certainly not the only reason to suffer through an international flight, and we have enjoyed plenty of places that didn’t have a distinct or memorable cuisine, but when the food is good, the day is always made just that much better. […]
Ka-ra-kal-pak-stan
This was a real tongue twister. Ka-ra-kal-pak-stan. Ka-ra-kal-pak-stan. Now say it faster. Ka-ra-pa-kal… Damn. After spending nearly a month in the ancient Silk Road cities, the Fergana Valley, and the Nuratau Mountains, we thought we were finally getting a grasp on Uzbekistan’s diversity and complexity. We were starting to understand […]
Night Trains
Years ago, when we were staying on an island in Cambodia in a little bungalow on the beach, Victor walked off the bed platform in the middle of the night and fell down a few feet. He wasn’t fully awake and somehow didn’t hurt himself. When his mom heard this […]
Next on the Bucket List: Oktoberfest in Munich
I was chatting with my cousin, who lives in Frankfurt, Germany, and telling her all about our 36-hour trip to Munich just to attend the opening of Oktoberfest. “Have you ever been?” I asked her. “Oh no!” she exclaimed. “We are not big drinkers at all!” “Neither are we!” I […]
Jamaica: The World’s Highest Coffee
Last month, we did something irresponsible. Are you ready? We paid $15 for a cup of coffee. Yes, frugal backpackers who run this blog did that. Before you judge us for the splurge, all I can say is that we did it in the fancy, four-story Starbucks on Chicago’s Magnificent […]
How I Left Everything and Joined a Monastery in Japan… For One Night
There are old fables of exhausted men climbing tall mountains to find a wise Buddhist monk meditating on the very top. The monk then, in very few words, discloses to the weary traveler the secret to success, love, life, or whatever grand question is presented. In these fables, the monks […]
Japan: The Simple Houses of a Complex Country
It was 6 am and I woke up freezing. Wrapped in my blanket head to toe, I braved the chilly air to sneak my head out and look around. We were sleeping on the floor. Under the neighboring blanket, Victor was awake and trembling as well. “It feels as if […]
Wondering About Chichen Itza
Every time I visit a place that is universally considered to be a “must-see” or a “wonder of the world”, I quietly prepare myself to be disappointed. Mass popularity often brings visitors (including us) to totally overrated places. Mount Rushmore, Stonehenge, the peeing boy statue – my personal list of […]
Singing the Portuguese Blues
It’s dusk in Lisbon. Darkness is setting over narrow streets, and mournful melodies flow out of every pub, café, and restaurant. It’s the sound of traditional Portuguese lament, produced by a twelve-string guitar, a viola, and a heartbroken woman (or sometimes a man). This is fado, folk music of Lisbon’s […]
Surrounded by Van Gogh
Earlier this month, we visited the hottest show in Chicago-The Immersive Van Gogh Exhibit. The installation lets visitors explore masterpieces by Vincent Van Gogh through 360-degree digital projections and an immersive light and sound show. Sitting in a large hall surrounded by changing images of the artist’s works, we were […]