War. What is it good for. Mostar Edition.

Any time we mentioned we were traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, the first question was always the same: “Isn’t that the place with the war?” Yes. But the war ended 30 years ago. It’s safe. Don’t worry! That answer was usually met with a head shake and a muttered comment […]

Bosnia and Herzegovina: One Country, Two Regions, Three Nations

What is a country? It’s a strange question, especially from someone who has traveled extensively.  But the answer is not quite as simple as a glance at a political map might suggest.  We have been to countries that no longer exist (Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, USSR), regions that used to be countries […]

Smuggling Molcajete

One of my most impractical dreams, born from years of travel, is this: I want to decorate each room in my house in the style of a different country.  The bedroom would be designed like a chamber in an Indian palace with ornate fabrics, carved wood, and a hint of […]

Dancing with Chinelos

The old, battered bus was bouncing on the road with dusty Mexican countryside rolling outside the window.  Google Maps on my phone was showing we were approaching our destination – Yautepec de Zaragoza.  Before the trip, I could not even imagine that we would be trying to get to this […]

Rioting in Cuernavaca

We were enjoying a quiet breakfast of an omelet and sopes on an outdoor patio, taking in the beautiful view of the central plaza. Like so many town squares in Mexico, it featured all the familiar elements: a park, a gazebo, a historic church, and the oversized colorful letters spelling […]

Where in the World is Luis?

By Julia / May 19, 2022

“We have a gap in the itinerary,” I said, “I don’t have an Airbnb booked for the night of Dec 30th. Where are we going to be?” “We are going to camp on top of the volcano,” Victor said. Here’s the thing.  I didn’t even question it. I know Victor […]

The Holy Pilgrimage of the Monarch (Butterflies)

By Julia / May 12, 2022

I was on my hands and knees digging in the damp dirt outside my patio.  My knees were wet, my hands were dirty up to my elbows.   Victor watched me from the window, his brow furrowed.  Sometimes, even a short international trip can have lasting consequences. But let’s start at […]

A Heatstroke in the Stone City

By Victor / May 6, 2022

I am sitting on a stony curbside in complete darkness. My head hurts. Dogs bark in the distance. The sweet darkness of Albanian night is hugging me gently as I rub my temples, trying not to throw up. That’s not how I envisioned our first meeting, Gjirokaster. Last summer, we […]

Donbas of My Youth

By Victor / April 24, 2022

The train arrived at 3 a.m.  We descended from the passenger railroad car, groggy and disheveled, into a dimly lit platform, the edges of which were swallowed by the night.  Kolya, our team captain, silently motioned, and we marched down the platform behind him.  I was 19 years old, and […]

Museum of Russian Aggression

By Victor / April 7, 2022

The world is shocked by the unprecedented Russian aggression in Ukraine.  But the sad truth is that it was very much precedented, by Russian aggression in Georgia in 2008.  Much like Ukraine, Georgia began eyeing integration into NATO, which led to a deteriorated relationship with Russia and eventually to the […]

Слава Україні! Glory to Ukraine!

By Julia / March 12, 2022

On February 24, we planned to post about El Salvador and Victor’s surfing attempt at Las Flores beach.  Then, Russia invaded Ukraine, and blogging about travel became irrelevant. I was born in Ukraine, in the tiny village of Ponornytsya in Chernihiv Province, because the hospital of Korop, a slightly larger […]

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