Sarajevo: From Olympic City to Besieged City

My mom rocks me gently in her arms. I’ve just turned one and stare at her with my big green eyes. She watches me lovingly but occasionally glances at the black-and-white TV in our living room. The TV broadcast shows snow-capped mountains, the open-air stadium, and cheering spectators. She would […]

With Love… To Sarajevo

I have never felt more lost in history and geography than on the streets of Sarajevo.  Within the same block, there would be an old mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue thrown in for good measure.  Strolling down Ferhadija Street, we would pass Viennese Secessionist buildings […]

Still Exploring Herzegovina. Part II.

Last week, we shared our journey through the underrated region of Herzegovina, and the destinations that both impressed us and reminded us of other locations from our prior travels around the globe. Today is Part 2 of that post, where we bring you more of Herzegovina. 4. Konjic or we […]

Exploring Herzegovina Beyond Mostar. Part I.

Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days. Wait … we did what? Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation. No, we didn’t drastically change the way […]

War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses

The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]

Take Me Out to The Ball Game

By Victor / June 25, 2022

Part I Summer is here, and for me, that means one thing – baseball.  In my view, nothing beats spending a couple of hours on a warm summer afternoon at a ballpark watching a game and connecting with friends over beer, peanuts, and crackerjack. In our U.S. travels, we love […]

Traveling in Search of Mud

By Julia / June 17, 2022

Ten years ago, I was inside a small ceramic shop in Santa Fe, on a street lined with art galleries, hipster coffee shops, and boutiques. “$260!” I exclaimed, “I mean that’s a pretty vase, but $260!” “That’s Mata Ortiz!” Victor gushed, “Look at the geometrical design!  It’s the modern recreation […]

Pupusa-mania

By Julia / June 9, 2022

On the very first night in El Salvador, we walked down a dark cobblestone street away from our hostel and towards a dim light flickering in the distance.  A few local dogs howled and barked as we trotted on.   Finally, we arrived.  A table covered with colorful cloth, a pile […]

Surf’s Up on Playa Las Flores

By Victor / June 2, 2022

El Salvador, a small and beautiful country in Latin America, is still largely ignored and avoided by international travelers.  The country that was torn apart by a civil war in the 1980s and, until recently, experienced pervasive gang violence, still regrettably suffers from a negative image.  Right now, the only […]

Camping on Top of the Conchagua Volcano

By Julia / May 27, 2022

Please start with Part I, where we search for Luis, for the volcano, and for the chance to spend an unforgettable night camping on top of Conchagua Volcano in El Salvador. As of the date of posting, we couldn’t find any comprehensive information about camping on Conchagua on the English-speaking […]

Where in the World is Luis?

By Julia / May 19, 2022

“We have a gap in the itinerary,” I said, “I don’t have an Airbnb booked for the night of Dec 30th. Where are we going to be?” “We are going to camp on top of the volcano,” Victor said. Here’s the thing.  I didn’t even question it. I know Victor […]

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