The U.S. Virgin Islands: America, But Not Quite the America You Know

“So, did we travel internationally or not?” We asked ourselves this question recently after returning from the U.S. Virgin Islands. Before the trip, we felt we weren’t traveling outside of the United States. The USVI is not a country. It’s a territory and part of the United States. The “U.S.” […]

Dig This: Mineral de Pozos

After spending the afternoon watching the parade and dance competitions in the ghost town of Mineral de Pozos, we had just enough daylight left to visit the one site we had actually planned: the abandoned Santa Brígida mine. The rain, clearly summoned by the relentless swirling and drum banging of […]

The Ghost Town That Wasn’t

We were in San Miguel de Allende, enjoying all the classic traits of a pretty Mexican town  – a gorgeous church dominating the skyline on the main plaza, colonial architecture with carved wooden doors and wrought-iron balconies, winding cobblestone streets, and quaint local markets where indigenous women sold traditional crafts. […]

From Tulum Trauma to San Miguel Magic

Our flight to Monterrey got cancelled again.  The first time, a year ago, we rebooked it for Mexico City, but this time airfare to León was cheap enough to make us consider going there… again. We had already taken the same flight a few years earlier and spent three wonderful […]

Mexican Chicago

Back in 2003, when I’d just arrived in Chicago, my first apartment was in Hermosa on the city’s northwest side. One evening, when I was in the back porch relaxing after a day of work, the street was suddenly filled with the sound of the revving engines. Motorcycles and cars […]

Our Own Museum of Travel

By Victor / December 15, 2022

Our condo is a museum of our never-ending globetrotting.  African masks, religious statues, souvenirs, and mementos from all over the world constantly fight for shelf space with the cats.  The more we travel, the more things we bring home.  Our minimalist way of life directly conflicts with the constant desire […]

Unexpected Food Capital of South America

By Victor / December 8, 2022

How come Peru has two restaurants in the top 10 restaurants in the world list, while the U.S. has none? This was the question we puzzled over while boarding our flight to Lima.  The answer was found shortly thereafter, during our nine-day crisscrossing of the land of the Incas, alpacas, […]

Peninsulas of Ireland Part II: The Luck of the Irish

By Julia / December 1, 2022

Start here with Part I: The Undiscovered Peninsulas of Ireland. Day 4. Ring of Kerry on Iveragh Peninsula. We spent a long time discussing the Ring of Kerry during the planning of the trip, and it all came down to this not-very-common itinerary question: clockwise or counterclockwise?  I can’t recall […]

The Undiscovered Peninsulas of Ireland

By Julia / November 17, 2022

“It looks like a claw,” Victor said. We zoomed in to the bottom left corner of the island of Ireland on Google maps, and I clearly saw a claw with five crooked digits protruding into the ocean, the five southwestern peninsulas.  The peninsulas, Mizen, Sheep’s Head, Beara, Iveragh, and Dingle, […]

On the Edge of the Crater: Volcano Hiking in El Salvador

By Julia / November 10, 2022

My recent post about hiking (and running) through Dunloe Gap reminded me of the most spectacular hike we did at the end of last year.  El Salvador and that entire region, including Guatemala and Costa Rica, are chock full of volcanoes, and yet another volcano hike didn’t sound like anything […]

Two Pubs, One Fort: A-Not-Very-Sober Day in Ireland

By Victor / November 3, 2022

We woke up in Kinsale to the clatter of beer barrels rolling down the cobblestone street.  The ultimate Irish alarm clock! After quickly grabbing coffee and splitting a scone, we started the day in this little sleepy Irish port town by taking a highly recommended walking tour.  An old, cheery […]

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