Sarajevo: From Olympic City to Besieged City
My mom rocks me gently in her arms. I’ve just turned one and stare at her with my big green eyes. She watches me lovingly but occasionally glances at the black-and-white TV in our living room. The TV broadcast shows snow-capped mountains, the open-air stadium, and cheering spectators. She would […]
With Love… To Sarajevo
I have never felt more lost in history and geography than on the streets of Sarajevo. Within the same block, there would be an old mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue thrown in for good measure. Strolling down Ferhadija Street, we would pass Viennese Secessionist buildings […]
Still Exploring Herzegovina. Part II.
Last week, we shared our journey through the underrated region of Herzegovina, and the destinations that both impressed us and reminded us of other locations from our prior travels around the globe. Today is Part 2 of that post, where we bring you more of Herzegovina. 4. Konjic or we […]
Exploring Herzegovina Beyond Mostar. Part I.
Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days. Wait … we did what? Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation. No, we didn’t drastically change the way […]
War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses
The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]
Our Own Museum of Travel
Our condo is a museum of our never-ending globetrotting. African masks, religious statues, souvenirs, and mementos from all over the world constantly fight for shelf space with the cats. The more we travel, the more things we bring home. Our minimalist way of life directly conflicts with the constant desire […]
Unexpected Food Capital of South America
How come Peru has two restaurants in the top 10 restaurants in the world list while the U.S. has none? This was one of the questions we puzzled over while boarding our flight to Lima. The answer was found shortly thereafter, during our nine-day crisscrossing of the land of the […]
Peninsulas of Ireland Part II: The Luck of the Irish
Start here with Part I: The Undiscovered Peninsulas of Ireland. Day 4. Ring of Kerry on Iveragh Peninsula. We spent a long time discussing the Ring of Kerry during the planning of the trip, and it all came down to this not-very-common itinerary question: clockwise or counterclockwise? I can’t recall […]
The Undiscovered Peninsulas of Ireland
“It looks like a claw,” Victor said. We zoomed in to the bottom left corner of the island of Ireland on Google maps, and I clearly saw a claw with five crooked digits protruding into the ocean, the five southwestern peninsulas. The peninsulas, Mizen, Sheep’s Head, Beara, Iveragh, and Dingle, […]
On the Edge of the Crater: Volcano Hiking in El Salvador
My recent post about hiking (and running) through Dunloe Gap reminded me of the most spectacular hike we did at the end of last year. El Salvador and that entire region, including Guatemala and Costa Rica, are chock full of volcanoes, and yet another volcano hike didn’t sound like anything […]
Two Pubs, One Fort: A-Not-Very-Sober Day in Ireland
We woke up in Kinsale to the sound of steel beer barrels being rolled down a cobblestone street. The ultimate Irish alarm clock! After quickly grabbing coffee and splitting a scone, we started the day in this little sleepy Irish port town by taking a highly recommended walking tour. An […]