Sarajevo: From Olympic City to Besieged City

My mom rocks me gently in her arms. I’ve just turned one and stare at her with my big green eyes. She watches me lovingly but occasionally glances at the black-and-white TV in our living room. The TV broadcast shows snow-capped mountains, the open-air stadium, and cheering spectators. She would […]

With Love… To Sarajevo

I have never felt more lost in history and geography than on the streets of Sarajevo.  Within the same block, there would be an old mosque, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue thrown in for good measure.  Strolling down Ferhadija Street, we would pass Viennese Secessionist buildings […]

Still Exploring Herzegovina. Part II.

Last week, we shared our journey through the underrated region of Herzegovina, and the destinations that both impressed us and reminded us of other locations from our prior travels around the globe. Today is Part 2 of that post, where we bring you more of Herzegovina. 4. Konjic or we […]

Exploring Herzegovina Beyond Mostar. Part I.

Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days. Wait … we did what? Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation. No, we didn’t drastically change the way […]

War in Sarajevo: Tunnel of Hope and Roses

The first thing I noticed after getting off the plane in Sarajevo was the mountains. Towering on all sides, they dominate the horizon, their steep slopes cloaked in lush alpine forest. These mountains have shaped Sarajevo for centuries, restricting its growth to the narrow valley, while positioning it along key […]

Taxicab Confessions in Tallinn

By Julia / April 14, 2023

When we are traveling and have questions that no guidebook or a quick Google search can answer, we always look for a local to chat with.  In Latin America or Southeast Asia, it’s easy, just find a friendly vendor, chat up our Airbnb host, or find a friendly expat in […]

Sugar and Slave Watchtowers

By Victor / April 6, 2023

Tobacco and sugar.  Two exports, in addition to rum, that Cuba is most known for.  After spending three days in the tobacco-growing province of Piñar del Rio, which included visiting a tobacco farm and learning about the cigar-making process in Viñales, it was time for us to explore the region […]

Get Addicted to Viñales – Tobacco and Rum

By Victor / March 30, 2023

In previous posts, Julia already described all the bouncing joy, painful blisters, and occasional aggressive biting of our horseback riding adventures in Viñales.  While Julia’s most powerful impressions in Viñales happened on horseback, I found myself awed in the most unexpected of places – a tobacco farm. We arrived in […]

Horseback Riding Day 2: Chocolate Declares War and Loses His Manhood

By Julia / March 23, 2023

Please start with Part I here. On the second day in Viñales, I woke up with a dull ache in my legs. “The four hours of horseback riding yesterday certainly left an uncomfortable reminder.” I mused as I waddled to the bathroom.  The problem was that my adventures in the […]

Galloping Through Viñales

By Julia / March 16, 2023

“Do you know how to ride horses?” our Airbnb host in Viñales asked. “Yes!” I answered without thinking.  If I had thought about it, the answer would have been, “Yes, I sat on a horse twice this year while the owner led it up a mountain, so I can enjoy […]

Havana Ooh Na Na

By Julia / March 9, 2023

There are two pictures I can show people who want to know the impression Havana left on me, both taken on our very first day, the first few pictures in the city. The first is the view from the balcony of our Airbnb. The second is the inside view of […]

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