São Paulo: Hate At First Sight

“Skip São Paulo. It’s just a concrete jungle. Nothing to see there,” was the advice I received while planning a trip to Brazil. Nonsense. We are big city people. We love architecture, museums, and restaurants. Big cities have this never-ending energy and are always full of activities and things to […]

Bad Things

We arrived in Taipei on December 13th and left on the 18th to explore Alishan. On December 19th, 2025, a 27-year-old man threw smoke grenades and stabbed people in a Taipei metro station, killing three people and injuring eleven others. He then killed himself by jumping from a building. This […]

Taiwan: Shaking in Our Boots

It was an evening of our last day in Kaohsiung, and we were visiting the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas.  Temples in Taiwan usually have dragons painted by one set of doors to indicate that those doors are used to enter the temple, and tigers by another set of doors, which […]

Day Lilies, Yuli Noodles, and the Mountain Mist

Of the four days in the East, we spent three days driving up and down the coastal highway.  These days were filled with stopping at ocean viewpoints, exploring the shoreline’s rugged geoparks, and learning about local indigenous culture. But as we navigated through this narrow stretch of land, sandwiched between […]

The Wild, Wild East: Taiwan’s Enigmatic East Coast

Like Alishan, we considered cutting the East Coast out of our itinerary entirely. The region was remote, and it was a logistical puzzle to plan.  Also, it was the only place in Taiwan where we needed to rent a car and potentially drive through what looked on the map like […]

The Shadowy Business of Nicaraguan Coffee

By Victor / March 20, 2025

At breakfast, we planned to ask Edgar, if he could give us a tour of his El Soccorro finca or recommend any other coffee tours in the area.  But it turned out, we didn’t even have to ask.  Edgar was super enthusiastic and excited about these two travelers who wanted […]

Coffee: In Love and War

By Victor / March 13, 2025

Several years ago, a coffee shop near my work had seasonal Nicaraguan coffee beans for sale. Coffee bags with big letters NICARAGUA featured an image of a man in a blue shirt holding a basket of ripe coffee cherries. The name of the coffee was “Don Zeledon”, and the coffee […]

Somoto Canyon: The River Runs Through It

By Julia / March 5, 2025

Start with Part I here In the last post, I left off just as we reached the bottom of the Somoto Canyon and, incidentally, the Nicaraguan border with Honduras.  As it turns out, the Rio Coco River, which runs through Somoto Canyon, divides Honduras and Nicaragua along most of its […]

Somoto Canyon: The What, the Why, and the How

By Julia / February 27, 2025

We were eating breakfast in our Granada Airbnb, the standard affair of rice, beans, eggs, and plantains, when Victor loudly snickered and put down the book he had been leafing through.  It was an old, torn-up Nicaraguan guidebook he found on the bookshelf among poetry books by Ruben Dario and […]

Español Nicaragüense Es Pura Deacachimba

By Victor / February 20, 2025

My First Post in Spanish “Sabes qué,” me dijo el guia nicaragüense, “eres el primer gringo que conozco que habla español muy bien.” Estabámos en la cima del Volcán Telica, a cien metros del cráter, y no podía creer lo que acababa de eschuchar.  Antes de visitar Nicaragua, no podía […]

Volcano Day: Up We Go

By Julia / February 13, 2025

In 2014, Victor was in Panama, and his favorite story was visiting Embera village and watching a pet toucan wash itself in a small outdoor sink.  Victor turned on the faucet to wash his hands, and the bird flew right in and started splashing around and trying to awkwardly fit […]

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