Earlier this year, we (almost) visited seven countries in five days.
Wait … we did what?
Because we constantly preach against hopping from one country to another and usually prefer a slow, immersive way of travel, I think we owe you an explanation.
No, we didn't drastically change the way we travel. It just so happened that in April, we went to Bosnia and Herzegovina and spent five days in its southern region. The incredible variety of sights in that area has reminded us of various places from our prior travels and often made us feel as if we were halfway around the world from Europe.
The most popular town in Herzegovina, and maybe in the entire country, is Mostar. Not many people go to Herzegovina, and those who do rarely stray outside of Mostar. But we are here to tell you that exploring the rest of the region should be on every traveler’s checklist. Leaving Mostar and driving around for a couple of days allowed us to discover other deserving spots in the area and reminisce on past travels.
1.Blagaj or we (almost) visit Japan
Once upon a time, there was a herceg, who built a fortress on a hill overlooking the Buna River valley near Blagaj and from which he ruled over the present-day Herzegovina. His name was Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, and “Herzegovina” was named after him. (“Herzegovina” means the lands of a herceg). But don't rush to judge Herceg Stjepan for arrogance and self-importance. He didn't name the place after himself. The Ottomans, who conquered the region in the second half of the 15th century, needed to refer to these lands somehow; so they named it after someone from whom they took these lands.
We learned about this early history of Herzegovina during a walking tour in Mostar and wanted to see the first capital of Herzegovina for ourselves. It's easy to visit Blagaj as it is a short 20-minute drive from Mostar. The hike to the ruins of the fortress wasn't too challenging, and the views from the top were commanding. But it's not the fortress that steals the show in Blagaj.
At the base of the cliff atop which the fortress is perched stands a striking 16th-century Dervish tekke. Built by the Ottomans after the conquest, it was a place of prayer and meditation for Sufi dervishes who lived here in seclusion. Hovering over the Buna River with a mountain as a dramatic backdrop, the white walls of this Dervish temple blend seamlessly into a natural setting. The simplicity of the building and its serene surroundings are a truly mesmerizing sight.
As we looked at this tranquil corner of the world, it was easy to forget where exactly we were. If someone dropped us in Blagaj without telling us the location, we could think that we were somewhere in Japan. The entire concept of an austere house of prayer harmoniously mixing with nature reminded us very much of Buddhist or Shinto temples that we previously visited in Japan.
2. Stolac or we (almost) visit Ireland
Visiting Herzegovina, we were determined to see a graveyard - or maybe even two. And it wasn't just any random graveyard that we were after, but one from the 15th century. If you think this is a sequel to our old tombstone tourism post, it might very well be.
Driving southeast from Blagaj towards Montenegro and Croatia, we got to Stolac. This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world with evidence of early dwellers at the nearby cave dating back 15,000 years. Stolac boasts a very impressive fortress, whose defensive walls dramatically snake around the hill on which it stands. And with its charming red-tile roofs, the town has a nearly Mediterranean look.
But the main attraction in this area is something else.
Stećci.
These distinctive tombstones date from the 12th to 16th centuries and are found in old burial grounds across Bosnia and Herzegovina and in parts of Serbia, Montenegro, and Croatia. Herzegovina has the highest concentration of them. And Stolac is the best place to see them.
When we got to the gates of the necropolis Radimlja outside of Stolac, unfortunately, it was already closed for the day. But we were undeterred. Because this UNESCO-inscribed necropolis sits right by the road leading to town, we were still able to see some of the enormous limestone funeral monuments with elaborate decorative motifs and inscriptions from the side of the road. Also, just because one necropolis was closed didn't mean that we could not get into another nearby medieval cemetery that was open 24/7.
Driving further south, and relying on GPS and occasional road signs, we soon got to a tiny hamlet called Boljuni. If there was a ticket booth at Radimlja, there were absolutely no traces of organized tourism in Boljuni. Local farmers were tending their fields or working around the yard and paid no attention to these two tombstone hunters. The necropolis at Boljuni comprises two plots of land with rows of stećci of different types: slabs, chests, gabled tombstones. These funeral monuments are beautifully decorated with reliefs including scrolling vines, rosettes, floral motifs, and, of course, shields with swords. This is a medieval cemetery after all.
We were there in late afternoon, and with the sun setting, the atmosphere was serene and meditative. As we were reflecting on life and travels while taking a break and sitting amongst these enormous gravestones in bucolic countryside, we reminisced about our trip to Ireland in 2022, when we got to see a lot of decorative Celtic crosses. Some of them we saw in museums, but some (for example, in Glendalough) we found at local graveyards, similarly set in tranquil and picturesque countryside.
3. Medjugorje or we (almost) visit Georgia
Herzegovina is a truly special place, and it is full of wine and … miracles. And no, the miracles are not about turning water into wine. It's something else, and I’ll tell you in a second.
Leaving Mostar one morning and driving south, we started to see wineries appearing on each side of the road and with road signs welcoming us to the “Herzegovina Wine Route”. Given the region’s mineral-rich soil and its sun-soaked location, Herzegovina is well-suited for winemaking. The winemaking traditions here date to Illyrian times and have flourished through centuries, surviving even the most turbulent times. We were short on time, so we skipped the tastings, but those with an interest in wine tourism may find this region quite worthy. Pairing together like “Bosnia” and “Herzegovina” in the country’s name, Žilavka (white) and Blatina (red) are the region’s two signature and most celebrated wines. We even brought them home as a gift for our wine aficionado friends.
Ok, now let’s get to the miracles part. Driving past wineries, we soon arrived in Medjugorje. On June 24, 1981, six local teenagers claimed that they witnessed the apparition of St. Mary at a nearby hill. After the initial skeptical response from the local parish church and the Yugoslav communist authorities, several years later, the government started to promote religious tourism to Medjugorje. The rest is history. Medjugorje has become a major pilgrimage site, and over 50 million pilgrims have visited the church since the alleged apparition. We are not Catholic, and not religious at all for that matter, so, for us, a church in Medjugorje was just a church. But we understand that for a lot of Catholics, it is a special place. The best part of visiting Medjugorje was people watching and seeing Catholics of different nationalities, skin color, and languages all getting excited when catching the first glimpse of the church and the hill where the alleged miracle took place.
And this brings me to another country of which we thought when we showed up in Medjugorje. If you combine long-standing winemaking traditions with religious miracles, one particular place immediately comes to mind – Georgia. In 2015, we visited Sakartvelo (as Georgians call their country), and part of the fun was about trying sweet wines of the Kakheti region - Kindzmarauli, Khvanchkara, Saperavi. And there was no lack of important churches or religious miracles, as Georgia was the second nation (after Armenia) to adopt Christianity as its official state religion. Tbilisi’s Sioni Cathedral featured the “Grapevine Cross” that is believed to hold the spiritual power and to have been created by St. Nino from vine branches.
Next week, come back for Part 2, where we take you to explore Herzegovina’s Socialist past, an abandoned hill town, and a breathtaking waterfall. Stay tuned!
