Ten years ago, we went to Thailand, and one of our main concerns was how to see as many temples as possible without being “templed out”. By the end of the trip, beautiful Thai temples did start to resemble each other, but we left just in time before they became one big colorful blur. So, understandably, when we sat down to plan our trip to Oman, the concern was similar. How many forts and castles could we possibly visit without wearing ourselves out?
Exploring forts and castles is one of the best activities in Oman. Unlike some other Gulf countries, Oman has preserved and meticulously restored numerous of its old fortresses. The country is dotted with these impressive defensive strongholds that tell a compelling story of a once-dominant regional power. Most sprang up during the Yaruba dynasty in the 17th and 18th centuries — the period that is considered the height of the Omani state. Not only did the Yaruba rulers expel the Portuguese, who had controlled Oman for nearly 150 years, but they also managed to build the maritime powerhouse, extending their dominion to Zanzibar and present-day Iran and Pakistan. Many forts serve as a reminder of those old glory days.
Omani forts share common architectural features. After touring one fort, you should be able to unmistakably identify another one. A typical fort consists of tall defensive walls, distinctive round and square towers, battlements, and walled enclosures. And, of course, most of them have the trademark sandstone color. Although the Portuguese were kicked out, their influence is visible in the building techniques — Omani forts are this striking mix of Arabic and European styles. And because of the country’s proximity and historical connection to India and Pakistan, there are certain influences from that region, too.
Choosing which forts to visit was no easy task. We did our best to go to as many as possible, because there was a real FOMO factor to skip another cool fort or castle. In some instances, we just limited our visit to admiring them from the outside. In Muscat, for example, we stopped by Al Jalali and Al Mirani forts guarding the waterway access to the Presidential Palace and read a fascinating historical account of an Omani sultan losing them both (and Muscat for that matter) to the Persians by getting too drunk at a banquet. Not far from them was Muttrah Fort. While there was nothing much to see inside, views of Muttrah harbor and the corniche from the top were simply sublime.
Some forts had beautiful locations, like Nakhl Fort, built on a rocky outcrop with views of mountains in the distance. Nizwa Fort, with its whimsical, oversized tower, looked like a movie set. Like almost every other defensive structure, it had secret passages, traps, and … a date storage room, where sacks with dates were stored in a way that allowed date juice to flow through a series of funnels to a collection jar. In peaceful times, date juice was consumed as a food item; at times of war, it was boiled and poured on advancing attackers through special holes in the walls.
Our two other favorite forts — Bahla Fort and Jabreen Castle — we visited on the same day, as they are located just 10 km apart. Bahla Fort is a sprawling fortress with numerous towers, rooms, and enclosures. It is one of Oman’s five UNESCO World Heritage sites, and it rightfully deserves the recognition, given the sheer size and historical significance. Before reopening to the public in 2012, Bahla Fort had been closed for nearly 25 years while undergoing a painstaking process of restoration. Despite its gargantuan size, the restored fort looks a little bit fragile, as most of its walls and towers are made of mudbrick.
Just a short distance away, Jabreen Castle looks more like a pleasure palace than a defensive stronghold. Set on a vast plain and surrounded by date palm fields, it was once home to the country’s Imam and effectively served as Oman’s White House for a short time. The elegantly decorated halls, painted ceilings, and rooms filled with books reflect the castle's history as a center of learning. After getting our noses into each nook and cranny, we climbed to the top from where we saw the most beautiful sunset in Oman. Sitting on the roof under the flagpole with the Omani flag flowing above us, we watched the sun set, its golden light reflecting off the nearby Hajar Mountains.
There were other forts that we checked out or simply passed by. Al Hazm Fort was compact but presented another striking example of Islamic defensive architecture. In addition to great photo ops, it had an excellent audio guide explaining the layout of the fortress and recounting the legends of a jinn who lived at the fort. While relaxing on colorful cushions, we listened to a tale about him pushing a man off a balcony for smoking and bothering him with a tobacco smell (that's right: smoking can be detrimental to your health). Rustaq Fort was closed for renovation and will be closed for another 5 years (according to local workers who briefly chatted with us). But once open, it will be a sight to behold. We managed to get a quick peek at what it looks like now, and the building looks magnificent, even though the restoration process is still underway and years from completion.
In the end, we didn't overdose on forts and happily kept exploring them until the last day of our trip. Although by our second or third fort, we had a rough idea that inside we would probably find a date storage room, a kitchen with Omani coffee pots, and typical living quarters of the time, we were still excited to come in, explore, and roam the premises, at times, all by ourselves.
