I must admit I was a little bit nervous about the prospect of driving in Oman. Driving in the Middle East is like a box of chocolates: you never know what you are going to get. On the one hand, you can get Turkey with its excellent network of roads, well-posted road signs, and well-behaved drivers (Istanbul taxi drivers are an exception). On the other hand, you can get Egypt with dusty, potholed roads and chaotic driving culture, where turning on lights at night is optional, it's ok to run an occasional red light, and it's mandatory to honk as much as you can while trying to pass other drivers, pedestrians, and donkeys, all sharing the same lane. So yes, I was a little bit apprehensive. Yet, because renting a car was the only practical way to visit as many places as possible, we had no choice but to head to the car rental office upon our arrival at Muscat International Airport.
After navigating through the deserts and mountains of Oman for 16 days, I'm happy to report that Oman is one of the best countries for a road trip. Seriously!
These are my 6 observations about driving in Oman.
1. Excellent Roads
The first thing you immediately notice in Oman is its excellent roads. We didn't expect that even in remote parts of the country, in the middle of nowhere, the roads would be paved and well-lit. They are also well-posted with signs in both English and Arabic, and it's very difficult to get lost or not find your way. On top of that, roads are free (no tolls!). Driving was an easy and enjoyable experience. And this is especially mind-blowing, considering in 1970, the country had only 10 km of paved roads around the capital. During his 50-year reign (1970-2020), Sultan Qaboos made the infrastructure his priority, and modern-day Oman boasts very impressive roads. And the work is not done because the construction carries on under the new sultan. As we headed from the coast to a desert camp, we witnessed how additional sections of the connecting road were being built and were in different stages of completion. Of course, what helps Oman maintain its roads, aside from continued government investment, is the climate. The country doesn't experience harsh winters, so naturally, it's easier to keep roads in good condition.
2. Relaxed Driving Culture
I'm not sure if it's due to the general friendliness of the Omani people or Oman being a prosperous country, but the local driving culture is very laid back. We found drivers to be calm, polite, and respectful of others. We didn't see any extreme or aggressive behavior on the road, and the relaxed culture made road-tripping an absolute joy. The only time crazy driving was detected was when we were transferred to our desert camp. After picking us up, the driver flew through the sands like a maniac, but that was part of the fun of getting to our destination. We even decided to skip the dune bashing activity offered by the camp, as we pretty much did it on the way to the camp.
3. No Traffic and Free Parking
No matter where we went, there was no traffic in Oman, including in Muscat at rush hour. The roads were never busy, and we often found ourselves being the only car on the road. The country is so vast that it's easy not to get trapped and stuck in traffic. Our favorite thing about driving in Oman, however, was that paid parking is almost a non-existent concept. During the entirety of our trip, we didn't pay for parking even once, including in some swanky and busy locations like the Royal Opera House and Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Muscat. As long as you don't block other cars, you are free to park wherever you want, and it will cost you nothing. It felt strange at first, but we got used to the fact that it was ok to leave the car at random places and find it later in the same spot and not be ticketed for improper parking. There was only one busy place in Muttrah that required parking payment, but we were visiting during a three-day mourning after the death of the Emir of Kuwait, when parking fees were waived. At least that’s how it was explained to us.
4. 2WD v. 4WD Dilemma
One of the perplexing issues, before we went to Oman, was whether to rent a four-wheel drive or a regular sedan. There were conflicting reports on the Internet with some people saying a four-wheel drive was a must, while others claimed a two-wheel drive would do the trick. Because the cost of renting a four-wheel drive was twice as much as renting a sedan, we opted for a sedan.
There was only one day when we needed a 4WD — the day we visited Saiq Plateau and Jebel Akhdar. And for that, we hired a 4WD for a few hours to take us up and down the mountain. Other than that, driving a sedan was just fine to get to most places. There was another mountain, Jebel Shams, to which the road was paved except for a 10 km section — and where I had to exercise extreme caution and drive slowly — but a 4WD wasn't needed to get there. Of course, for those who want to do some off-road driving and visit more remote villages hidden in the Hajar Mountains, you will need a 4WD.
5. Traffic Rules Enforcement
We didn't see a lot of traffic cops, or any cops, for that matter. During our trip, we saw maybe two or three police cars, and even those were parked and not doing much. The way the roads are controlled and road rules are enforced is through video cameras that are ubiquitous and installed along most roads. The maximum speed limit in Oman is 120 km/hr, and I did my best to comply with it. However, because the roads are so great, it was often so easy to inadvertently cruise over the limit. In addition to Julia whispering from the passenger’s seat that I was going over, the car also made beeping noises every time I went over 120 km/hr. Deep inside, I was afraid that despite the lack of police presence, we would get a substantial fine for my accidental speeding when we returned the car. At the car rental office, as we were wrapping up our trip, the agent examined the vehicle, found no damage, and even complimented my driving and for returning the car without a scratch. I was anxiously waiting for him to go inside the office, check the computer, and come back with a whopping bill for all the speeding I had done during our trip. Luckily, that didn't happen.
6. Speed Bumps
The only thing we didn't like about driving in Oman was the speed bumps that were everywhere, including on major roads, and often unmarked, appearing out of nowhere. There were too many agonizing moments when one of us would notice a speed bump last second and scream at the top of our lungs, “TOPE!!!” (the Mexican term for 'speed bump' we'd somehow adopted), but it would be too late with our car being mercilessly thrown into the air. It was a miracle we didn't damage the car. So, Oman, next time, please have fewer speed bumps or mark them well!
All in all, if you plan to visit Oman, renting a car is the way to go and the best way to see this lovely country. Enjoy the ride! Just look out for those speed bumps and camels that occasionally may cross the road!
Today, this little travel blog celebrates 5 years. Thank you for being with us all these years! And to more travels and travel stories!!
Great, thank you!