Although we repeat that we rarely drink, we finished almost every day of our recent trip to Ireland in a pub. We drank in pubs, we danced in pubs, and once we even slept above a pub. Our travel philosophy of adapting to the customs of the place we visit — and doing whatever locals do — turned us for 10 days into drinking bloggers with a traveling problem. But we loved every moment of it and have no regrets.
Pubs are an integral part of people’s lives in Ireland and serve as the heart of every community. Like anywhere in Latin America, where every central square is dominated by the cathedral, every Irish town, no matter how small it is, is centered around the pub. Driving around Ireland, we encountered pubs everywhere: from the bustling capital city of Dublin to midsize towns of Kenmare and Killarney to tiny villages in the remote Sheep’s Head peninsula.
Each day in Ireland, we learned something new about the history, traditions, and etiquette of pub life. For starters, before the trip, we didn't even know that the word “pub” was short for “public house”. When it was mentioned to us during one of the tours, both Julia and I had a synchronized “aha!” moment. Centuries ago, when the term “public house” was coined, it was used to designate taverns and inns that were opened to the public, in contrast to private houses.
In Ireland, we also realized that a pub is not just a watering hole but a place of connection for the Irish. Getting together with friends for a pint is always a good way to stay connected and maintain strong social bonds, and the Irish live by this principle. Before the trip, we expected pubs to be full of young people, but that wasn't always the case. We regularly saw groups of middle-aged friends drinking and socializing, married couples having a night out, or old people spending an evening together singing traditional songs. But it was when we saw a 5-year-old with a glass of milk next to her mom, who was gulping down a milky pint of Guinness in a Kinsale pub, that it became clear to us that pubs are absolutely for everybody, where people of all ages feel at home.
On the practical side, we also picked up a few pointers. First, don't come hungry to pubs after 9 p.m. because you will not find any food there. Generally, pubs stop serving food (even bar snacks) after a certain hour. We learned this the hard way on the first day when we turned up at The Pumphouse in Kilkenny at 9:15 p.m. There was no food there, and we ended up eating a stir-fry at a Chinese restaurant next door because this was the only available food option in the area.
Another thing we learned was that pouring a pint of stout takes a loooong time. It involves pouring beer in stages, allowing it to settle. When I ordered my first Guinness at The Pumphouse, the bartender took my order and then … forgot about it. Or so I thought. Several minutes after ordering my beer, I was still empty-handed, patiently waiting for it. Eventually, a glass of Guinness with a trademark foamy top landed in front of me. Although it took a while, the wait was well worth it every time I ordered it.
During our 10 days in Ireland, we visited remarkable pubs with a lot of character. Some displayed a plaque of the James Joyce Award for being an “authentic Irish bar which retains a genuineness of atmosphere, friendliness, and presence of good company.”
Stepping inside Dick Mack’s in Dingle felt like traveling back in time. One wall was filled with bottles of whiskey and other hard liquor from floor to ceiling, while shelves on the opposite wall were stocked with old books, shoeboxes, and boots, reflecting the pub’s rich history. This business was established in 1899 and has been in the hands of the same family. Initially, it was a grocery store, then became a leather shop, and finally converted into a more lucrative pub business.
Just a short walk from Dick Mack’s brought us to Foxy John’s, a pub that is also a part-time hardware store and a bike repair shop. The pub has a wide selection of not only beer and apple cider, but also tools, machine parts, and bike locks, all for sale.
Dalton’s in Kinsale was the best pub for traditional Irish music. The place was packed with older residents playing instruments and singing in English and Gaelic. This “trad” session felt like dropping by someone's living room.
The Pumphouse in Kilkenny was just perfect because our Airbnb was located right above it, so it was very convenient to enjoy drinks and then take the stairs to our room.
Temple Bar in Dublin was surely touristy as hell, but the atmosphere was festive, and we didn't mind being surrounded by other tourists celebrating the Irish pub culture.
MacCarthy's Bar in Castletownbere, Cork County, warrants a special mention. Founded more than 160 years ago, this James Joyce Award pub became world-renowned when it was featured in Pete McCarthy's book McCarthy's Bar. In the book, the main character travels through Ireland, visiting different watering holes and learning about the changing Irish society. As part of this journey, he visits MacCarthy’s Bar, too. The pub is not only described in the book but is also featured on its cover. Considering the book was a #1 bestseller in Ireland, the pub immediately became a tourist attraction.
By the time we got to MacCarthy's Bar late in the afternoon, we'd had a long day of driving, and Julia wanted a cup of coffee to boost her energy. As she was placing the order, I went to the bathroom, and when I returned, I found the bartender describing how an Irish coffee is made. Julia whispered to me that since we were in Ireland, it just made sense to make coffee a little bit Irish. The bartender explained that for Irish coffee, all you need is hot water, instant coffee, sugar, and whiskey. Five minutes later, she appeared, carefully carrying a beautiful glass cup of coffee topped with whipped cream. Julia took a picture of the coffee, licked whipped cream off, and then took a big gulp.
“Oh, no!!” she squealed, her eyes widening.
“What’s wrong?”
“Hmm…How do I say that?? I'm not sure this whiskey has any coffee.”
Apparently, the bartender was very generous and didn't skimp on whiskey. Julia barely finished the drink, and by the time she did, her face was as red as a boiled lobster caught off the Irish coast. Instead of the needed energy boost, this spiked cup of coffee made her even more lethargic, and to get her back in shape, we took a vigorous walk through the town.
“How much did you pay for the coffee?” she asked as we climbed back in the car.
“7 Euros.”
“What??? 7 Euros for a cup of coffee?? Ah, never mind. That was a glass of straight-up whiskey, so 7 Euros is a good deal.”
“And it had whipped cream…” I smirked.
We jumped in the car and drove off to the next pub.
In Ulysses, James Joyce once wrote the words, often quoted on plaques in Irish pubs, “A good puzzle would be to cross Ireland without passing a pub.”
To me, the question is not how one would do that, but WHY. Why would one deny themselves the pleasure of a dark foamy pint, the lively fiddle and whimsical flute of traditional Irish music, and a good conversation with a friend? No trip to Ireland would be complete without it.
Love the Ireland trip experience!
Thanks, Joy! There are more posts to come!